Voltage spikes are a common cause of dead controllers on pumps. Some pump systems also include delicate electronics so although not required by warranty, its cheap insurance for your brand new piece of kit. We sell surge protectors in our online store but your local bunnings or mitre10 will stock these cheap pieces of kit.

All submersibles are built to live fully submerged, but the old line that water and electricity do not mix still applies.

The three places submersibles fail electrically are the capacitor, the float switch, and the power cord at the entry point on the pump body. Pumps that sit in one place for years (tank submersibles, permanent sump pumps) rarely have electrical problems.

Dewatering pumps that get moved between sites, lifted by the cable, dropped on rough ground, and run dry on a regular basis do not last. That kind of handling cracks the cable jacket, works the cord loose where it enters the pump body, and lets water reach the motor over time.

If you are buying for hard duty use, lift it by the handle or attach a rope and try not to run it for extended periods of time with the motor not submerged.

Ensure that the float turns the pump off before running dry. Dry running for any amount of time damages seals, melts internal components, causes leaks, and shortens the life of the pump. Damage from dry running is not covered under warranty.

Thread tape (PTFE) or a liquid thread sealant (sometimes we use both) is required on every threaded join to stop leaks. The easiest way to remember how to apply thread tape is to hold the fitting in your left hand and wrap the tape around the thread by rolling it away from you, six to seven revolutions. Try not to get tape on the first couple of threads that slot into the female fitting, or you will end up cross threading or fighting alignment.

Thread tape has weaknesses compared to a liquid sealant. If you tighten a thread too far and have to back off, the tape often leaks and you have to redo the join. For plastic and PVC connections we often use a liquid sealant like Loctite 5331 instead. Two benefits. You can adjust the thread as you fit the pump without losing the seal. And 5331 sets firm, which holds the thread together far better over time, especially when there is movement or water hammer in the system.

The pump should be securely bolted or screwed to whatever it is sitting on. That stops the pump walking under vibration, and it stops vibration travelling out through the pipework. The pump weight should never hang off the plumbing. The plumbing itself should be supported with brackets or clips so the suction and discharge lines are carrying their own weight, not pulling on the pump body.

Dewatering pumps do not need a pressure tank. For submersible pressure pump that supplies your house a pressure tank is beneficial.

We recommend installing at least an 18L Davey Supercell on any pressure system that uses a pressure switch or controller. But bigger is better.

Most house pumps are set up so they will not deliver dangerous pressure into the house, and most houses already have a pressure limiting valve fitted somewhere. As a rule, do not run pressure above 500 kPa (72 psi) into the house without a pressure limiting valve in place. 300 to 400 kPa is great pressure for most households.

Some pressure controllers, and all smart variable speed pumps, let you adjust the setpoint. We recommend using a pressure controller with a built-in pressure gauge like the PM Plus, or fitting a separate pressure gauge in the system so you can see what the pump is doing.

Separate from your downstream pressure setting: if the incoming supply itself can exceed the rating of any component (the pump, the filtration housings, the downstream pipework), fit a pressure limiting valve upstream of those components. For filtration housings specifically, anything above 500 kPa upstream needs a PLV.

Sit the pump on a brick, paver, or a purpose made pump stand. Direct contact with the floor pulls sediment straight into the intake. A few centimetres of clearance underneath makes a real difference.

If the pump has a float, the float needs clear space to swing through its full arc without hitting the wall, the pump body, the cable, or any incoming pipework.

Confirm the pit/tank are reasonably clean of debris, the inlet is positioned away from the float, and the pump landing surface (brick, paver, stand) is level and stable.

Position the cord clip at the estimated right height. Test the swing dry: lift the float through its full arc and confirm it does not hit anything.

Lower the pump in on its lifting rope or handle. Sit it on the landing surface.

Fit the discharge pipe with the non return valve if required and a union or quick disconnect above water.

Run the cable up the discharge pipe, cable tie it loosely every metre or so, and form the drip loop above the pit.

Plug in the pump and allow it to go through a full emptying cycle by adding water or emptying what is already there. Ensure the float switch moves unobstructed. You may not be able to do this on a full large tank or sump.

A weep at commissioning becomes a flood at year two.