Voltage spikes are a common cause of dead controllers on pumps. Some pump systems also include delicate electronics so although not required by warranty, its cheap insurance for your brand new piece of kit. We sell surge protectors in our online store but your local bunnings or mitre10 will stock these cheap pieces of kit.

Most pumps designed for at least a little moisture. To extend the life of your new piece of equipment, it is always best practice to have the system well protected by a pump cover or installed out of the elements. Pumps that are exposed to the elements will more regularly have motor and controller issues and often need replacement motor bearings more regularly than those that are well protected.

Most of the products we sell are plug and play, any electrical changes you need to make should be carried out by your local electrician

Thread tape (PTFE) or a liquid thread sealant (sometimes we use both) is required on every threaded join to stop leaks. The easiest way to remember how to apply thread tape is to hold the fitting in your left hand and wrap the tape around the thread by rolling it away from you, six to seven revolutions. Try not to get tape on the first couple of threads that slot into the female fitting, or you will end up cross threading or fighting alignment.

Prime the pump before first start. What does that mean? Fill the suction line and the wet end of the pump with water. There are a few ways to do this depending on the install and they are outlined in the sections below. Most pumps (even the ones that claim they are self priming) need water in the wet end to run safely. Dry running for any amount of time damages seals, melts internal components, causes leaks, and shortens the life of the pump. Damage from dry running is not covered under warranty.

Thread tape has weaknesses compared to a liquid sealant. If you tighten a thread too far and have to back off, the tape often leaks and you have to redo the join. For plastic and PVC connections we often use a liquid sealant like Loctite 5331 instead. Two benefits. You can adjust the thread as you fit the pump without losing the seal. And 5331 sets firm, which holds the thread together far better over time, especially when there is movement or water hammer in the system.

There is one place you do not use thread tape or sealant: when the fitting has an O-ring or gasket to seal it. Things like unions where the pressure controller meets the pump sometimes have an O-ring doing the seal. These connections do not want tape or sealant. Adding it usually causes a leak.

Quick rule of thumb. O-ring or gasket? No thread tape. Thread to thread? Always use thread tape or sealant. 

Short video example here.

The pump should be securely bolted or screwed to whatever it is sitting on. That stops the pump walking under vibration, and it stops vibration travelling out through the pipework. The pump weight should never hang off the plumbing. The plumbing itself should be supported with brackets or clips so the suction and discharge lines are carrying their own weight, not pulling on the pump body.

On the delivery side, the line from the pump to the highest fixture should rise consistently. No traps. House pumps rarely run into air lock issues on the delivery side.

On the suction side, air locks cause real problems. Avoid any section of pipe where air can collect. A steady, constant gradient beats sharp turns or pipe runs that rise then drop sharply.

Most modern pump setups do not need an extra pressure tank. The variable speed pumps we sell, like the Davey EvoDrive and the DAB Esybox, have pressure tanks built in. And when you use a smart pressure controller like the Torrium or the PM Start, the controller itself prevents the rapid cycling that a pressure tank would otherwise smooth out.

That said, a pressure tank has real benefits and can be added to any pressure system. It can save up to 30% on pump energy use. The pump turns on less often, because around 20% of the pressure tank's volume is used before the pump needs to kick in again. And it reduces water hammer and vibration through the plumbing, because there is an air bubble in the tank to expand and contract as pressure shifts.

We recommend installing an 18L Davey Supercell on any pressure system that uses a pressure switch or controller. Bigger is better.

Most house pumps are set up so they will not deliver dangerous pressure into the house, and most houses already have a pressure limiting valve fitted somewhere. As a rule, do not run pressure above 500 kPa (72 psi) into the house without a pressure limiting valve in place. 300 to 400 kPa is great pressure for most households.

Some pressure controllers, and all smart variable speed pumps, let you adjust the setpoint. We recommend using a pressure controller with a built-in pressure gauge like the PM Plus, or fitting a separate pressure gauge in the system so you can see what the pump is doing.

Separate from your downstream pressure setting: if the incoming supply itself can exceed the rating of any component (the pump, the filtration housings, the downstream pipework), fit a pressure limiting valve upstream of those components. For filtration housings specifically, anything above 500 kPa upstream needs a PLV.

Every metre of suction line adds friction loss and eats into available lift. Place the pump as close to the water source as the install allows, and as low as the layout allows. A pump three metres above water with a five metre suction run is far healthier than the same pump with a fifteen metre suction run.

A concrete pad is best but a couple of large pavers works well. Bare ground does not. The base must be level so the pump body sits true and so the priming port (if there is one) does not leak air on the high side.

You've made a big investment in your new pump so install it in a pump shed, lean-to, or weatherproof enclosure.

Although most pumps are reasonably weather proof, they do not like rain or sun. The controller especially. Direct UV degrades plastics, and rain ingress over time will reach the electronics no matter what the IP rating claims. If installing outdoors purchase one of our Davey pump covers.

Leave some clear space above the pump for service access, and 200 mm at the rear for airflow. Do not install in a sealed cupboard with no airflow as pump motors generate heat and needs to be vented.

Electronic pressure controllers and variable speed pumps (Davey EvoDrive,DAB Esybox, and similar) include the pressure logic built in and will protect your pump from running dry rapid cycling etc. You do not require a pressure tank, however, a pressure tank is always beneficial.

A valve (tap) on the discharge side so the house can be isolated from the pump without draining the system for servicing but also for helping diagnose issues like identifying where leaks are in the system.

A suction lift pump cannot start dry. The pump needs water inside the body and inside the suction line before you energise it, because the pump creates flow by spinning water, not by sucking air.

If the pump starts dry, it dry runs (damaging seals, melting components, voiding warranty), and it will not pull water up the suction line on its own.

If the pump loses prime (suction line drains while pump is off, foot valve fails, water source drops too low), you have to reprime. Same process as first prime: pour water in at the priming port until the system fills. This is why a priming tee is non negotiable on a suction lift install. Without it, you are taking the pump apart to reprime.

A common misconception is that self priming pumps are fully self priming. This is just not the case, all the pumps we sell need water to create suction.

Self priming pumps can rebuild prime on their own provided there is a good amount of water in the suction line and wetend of the pump.

They cannot prime themselves from completely empty. First time you commission, fill the pump body and suction line manually before energising.

Visually confirm the foot valve and strainer are below the water surface at the source. If the source can be drawn down during the test, account for that.

Open the priming port. Pour clean water in until the pump body and the suction line are full and water spills out the top. Close the priming port.

The priming port is the bolt on the wetend of the pump.

In some circumstances, you may be able to open the priming port and move the suction line up and down repeatedly to prime the pump.

Open the discharge valve. Open a tap at the house to allow air and new water travel through the system.

Power on the pump. The pump should start and start pumping water through the system to the open tap at the house.

Close the valve on the outlet of the pump. Pressure should rise to the cut-out setting. The pump should stop within a 30 seconds of reaching its max pressure. Open the valve again. Pressure will fall and the pump should restart again.

Turn the tap off at the house, if no water is being used the pump should pump up to pressure and turn off. Spend some time to go over every new connection point and piece of pipework to ensure there are no leaks. Even a small leak will lead to the pump cycling on and off and early wear.

Turn the pump off. Leave it for 10 minutes. Energise it again. If it starts and pressurises immediately, the foot valve and suction line are holding prime correctly. If it has to repull water (slow start, rough sound, slow pressure rise), the foot valve is leaking or there is a leak on the suction side.